Pre-Tuning Vehicle Review

We have seen an alarming amount of vehicles (both remote, and in-person) show up not ready for tuning. 

A great calibration starts with a solid mechanical base at its foundation. You can have the perfect tune, but if a vehicle has leaks, janky wiring, etc...It will still not run properly. 

Here are a few basic areas where a little due diligence will save everyone ALOT of time. 

Fuel/Air

-Be it in person or remote, there should be AT LEAST a half tank of fuel in the tank. The fuel should be no more than 90 days old unless specifically treated for long term storage. 

-The correct octane fuel should be *already* in the tank. If you're asking for 93 tuning, and you have a full tank of 87, you are gonna have a bad time. 

-Ethanol users- if you are using pump Ethanol, TEST EVERY FILL UP. I don't do max effort tuning on pump Ethanol knowing it varies but again, a little attention to detail goes a long way. 

-When submitting info for tuning, please be ABSOLUTELY sure you are relaying the correct injector information. Nothing blows out hours of troubleshooting like telling us you have 650s when you actually have 1000s...

If you are tuning with an air filter in place- please ensure it is recently serviced (clean, no obvious dirt or grime that would prove to be a restriction)

Ignition

-For those of you still on JTEC (96-04 most models excluding Viper) - use NGK plugs, brass cap/rotor, and quality wires. We recommend Firecore wires.

-The following is a guide for the correct plugs for the application

GEN 3 Hemi (N/A leave gap untouched, boosted apps please gap to .028") 

Early 5.7- NGK 2314

6.1 - NGK 2315

5.7 Eagle- NGK 6619 (NGK 2309 for power adders north of 650 whp)

6.4 Apache- NGK 6510 

6.2 Hellcat- NGK 2309, email for high boost (20 psi+) applications.

 318/360/Jeep I6: NGK ZFR6F-11 for mild NA apps, NGK BKR7E for power adder (.035" gap) 

4.7- NGK BKR6E-11, NGK BKR7E-11 for power adder applications ( .035" gap)

Gen2/Gen3 Viper. OEM Champion plugs. Yes, seriously. 

 Exhaust: 
Ensure there are no leaks. 
ALL O2 SENSORS NEED TO BE CONNECTED INTO THE HARNESS. 
Wideband needs to go into a dedicated bung (STRICTLY FOR TESTING PURPOSES ONLY, a rear O2 bung can be used in a pinch). 
If wideband sensor is downstream of the catalyst(s) and or in a tailpipe sniffer, please let us know. 
If you intend to use a cutout for race purposes- let us know. 

Suspension
Control Arm Bushings, Shock bushings, Motor Mounts, Tires etc all need to be rot-free. Even on a chassis dyno, these items are safety-critical.